I don’t know about everyone else but I enjoy searching for a good vintage piece. Something that is considered a “good find” so to speak. This is not entirely true because I have never searched very hard, most of the vintage things I’ve bought was found by accident. In other words I wasn’t really looking for anything specific, the stuff just found me (they find me everywhere). But it’s amazing what you can come across if you know what to look for and have some patience. I’m usually delightfully surprised by at least one item. The best places to shop of course are upscale areas in metropolises like New York, London or L.A. I still have a pair of pants purchased from a flea market on Portobelllo Road in Notting Hill. Well made clothes never go out of style.
This kind of shopping comes by way of specialty vintage boutiques (like Decades in Los Angeles where I once bought a small Gucci bag), vintage clothing fairs (where I scored my Pucci wedge sandals), consignment stores (make friends with the owner and they’ll let you know when something special comes in), auctions, on-line sales sites (1st Dibs?), flea markets, estate sales, even yard or garage sales. I bought a one-of-a-kind Fendi baguette from a yard sale of all places. Never used (by the seller that is). In fact it was so cheap that I wondered if it was a knock-off at first. The “best-ever”bag find was bought by a friend of mine – a real steal. She purchased a Louis Vuitton Speedy Bag for only $5.00 and It’s real (major bag envy because I paid full price for mine). So we can benefit from the relatively small group of people who don’t know what they have or just don’t care.
If it’s an estate sale, head for the bedroom where the clothes of the lady of the house are often laid out. Here you could be face-to-face with the situation vintage shoppers dream about – the discovery of an entire wardrobe of a person whose taste is much like your own, and in your size. Keep dreaming, and make her a rich person who shopped in Paris, whose heirs care more about her Sisleys than her Schiaparellis. It can happen. I came thisclose to scoring a vintage Chanel jacket that fit me to a tee rummaging through someone’s closet. I no sooner put it down (never do this) before someone else snapped it up. That opportunity has not presented itself again. I think of it as “the one that got away” but I’m still dreaming….
Such sales in resort areas like Palm Beach, Long Island or Santa Barbara (I just bought a pair of Chanel costume earrings in *Santa Barbara) offer particularly rich possibilities but other suburban places and outskirts have yielded legendary vintage finds. I have friends who are experts at recognizing quality vintage jewelry (a category onto itself) which really helps.
Here’s what you really need to know:
Obviously just because a garment is old does not automatically make it better. OLD is just OLD.
What you are looking for is vintage clothes (accessories, etc.) of great quality and interest. One of the primary reasons for shopping vintage is the chance to buy a garment as beautifully styled and made as the couture clothes of today for less than you would pay for the cheesy, cookie-cutter stuff at the mall. This is easier to accomplish than you might think. Many pre 60’s clothes were made by hand, using beautiful fabrics that are now too expensive for most manufacturers to use (like a perfectly cut navy gabardine blazer I once bought in Toronto with nice buttons) or they have ceased to be made at all.
You should not settle for anything other than perfect or near-perfect condition. If the item is in the almost-perfect category make sure the problem is something you can fix.
Look for great styling, expensive or intricate fabrics, interesting finishing touches, and first-class hand workmanship. These are the qualities that make a vintage garment a wearable classic.
You can always mix classic with your contemporary clothing, in fact it looks best to do so. Most of all have fun looking. Remember, there’s only one of everything!
*the shop where I bought the earrings had one pair of Manolo Blahnik ornate jeweled flats that fit me. The store owner was going to let them go for only $20 but the toe was pointier than I like so I didn’t buy them. Sometimes even if the shoe fits and the price is better than…you might have to unfortunately say “no” if the style doesn’t suit you. You loss is someone else’s gain. Omg Only $20??? You ask yourself, should I have bought them anyway? Shades of Carrie Bradshaw…
Have you made any great discoveries?
Other Sources:Vintage Style – a great overall guide by Tiffany Dubin (former founder & director of Sotheby’s world famous fashion department store in New York) & Ann E. Berman (well-known freelance writer on art collecting and design for publications such as Town and Country, Architectural Digest, Martha Stewart Living & The Wall Street Journal) – Harper Collins. p.s. buy the way, I bought the hard cover book at a garage sale during Modernism week in Palm Springs while out riding my bike.
Love the Retro look but not sure about shopping vintage?
Lily & Cie – Los Angeles
Locating the best pre-loved pieces can be tricky but definitely worthwhile for those who love that extra attention to detail. The stores mentioned here fail to capture the true essence of what they really are. They offer so much more. They are run by truly obsessive people – scholars, men and women who can spot a 1966 vs. a 1968 YSLwomen’s tuxedo on the street, who can call out a fake Chanel jacket from a sample of thread. This is not your typical thrift shop deal although people have been known to occasionally spot a great find from one or even a rummage, garage or sidewalk sale.
Lily et Cie in Beverly Hills may just be the original fashion archive, the store that made vintage acceptable, wearable and cool. Owner Rita Watkin, known to be notoriously picky, is a true character with an encyclopaedic knowledge of fashion. Her story: before founding Lily et Cie, she worked at Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Valentino and YSL. One day, she inherited a prestigious collection of 20th Century fashion (that today rivals that of the Met and the Louvre) from a close family friend. She stored it for years until word spread and she finally opened up shop in the 80’s. On a visit years ago, we spotted John Galliano and his entourage (circa the Christian Dior years) taking notes and seeking inspiration. Ahhhh.
Renée Zellwegger & Penélope Cruz – both in Lily & Cie dresses.
Picked up from Lily et Cie – the iconic yellow Jean Desses worn by Renée Zellwegger to the Oscars. Gorgeous on her! And of course, Penélope Cruz looks great in anything but check out this Balmain princess frock also worn to the Oscars -where she won for Vicky Christina Barcelona.
Then…there’s:
Decades on Melrose, known as Hollywood’s destination for the finest vintage couture and modern luxury consignment.
Decades
Cameron Silver and Christos Garkinos, aka The Dukes of Melrose, run a vintage store so revered in Hollywood that it had its own TV show on Bravo. In fact, Cameron has literally written the book on fashion. It’s name? Decades. Hand-picked items are displayed in their deluxe boutique in such a way that customers can truly see each piece for what it is – vintage couture. Cameron says it best, “When Decades opened in 1997, vintage was still rather socially unacceptable and people were turned off by wearing something ‘used.’ However, Decades educated the savvy fashionista that vintage is a modern way to differentiate your style and the edit has always been about ‘vintage that looks modern.'”
“There isn’t a season that goes by that a designer doesn’t reference the iconic Norman Norell mermaid gowns of the 1960’s. Marc Jacobs recently showed several variations. Whether fully covered like a second skin or a more bare halter style, the flat paillettes look magically applied to the body in a very sensual manner that remains timeless nearly 60 years after this dress was designed. This is pure glamour.”
70’s Courreges
“One of the big trends this fall is the introduction of the oversized bold pattern coat. Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo have both proposed this fresh silhouette in recent collections. This is a late 70’s Courreges check coat that has the spirit of the current runway looks.”\
Early 80’s Kenzo
“Everyone’s mad for plaid this season, and the grunge-redux look can easily be luxe’d up with a vintage Kenzo shirt. I love this worn casually with jeans or a leather legging. Don’t be afraid to wear it tied around your waist with a tank top for a rocker-chic vibe.”
Ruth Myers, a true vintage fiend and the costume designer for movies like L.A. Confidential, Emma and The Addams Family, gives us her top list of vintage dealers in the two cities she calls home, L.A. and London.
Kim Basinger – L.A. Confidential
“In London, I love the stalls in Alfie’s Market. Tintin is incredibly classy, and the owner Leslie has a ton of knowledge and has wonderful treasures, as does June Victor on the top floor. I also love the basement at Gray’s Antique Market off Bond Street, Portobello market on Saturday mornings and Annie’s, Cloud Cuckoo Land and Dreamtime in Camden Passage, Islington, and it’s always worth a trail through Camden Market.”
content for Decades & Lily & Cie taken goop.com mag #11
Consulting this book is a good idea before hitting your local pre-loved boutique.
Since good quality vintage can be pricey and the sizes confusing, we asked the UK’s leading vintage stylist, personal shopper (and author of new book Style Me Vintage) Naomi Thompson to create a guide on finding the best items. Read on..
1. Be prepared
Arm yourself with garments that are easy to get out of; something you can slip on and off without fuss – my favourite uniform for vintage shopping is a button-down dress. Wear minimal make-up. Many vintage garments do up at the side and have to go over your head, rather than over your hips, so whilst it’s tempting to don a red lippy to get into the spirit of things, it’s best not to smear it all over the neck of a yellow 50s frock. You won’t be judged in a shop for not looking the part.
2. Always hold garments up to the light
Have you noticed how dark vintage shops can be? Well, it’s not always intentional (they can just be cluttered places), but it sure does make it harder to spot flaws. By holding it up to the light you can instantly see any holes or repairs. The light will also shine through any patches where the fabric has become too thin and delicate. With woolen garments, check the elbows to make sure there is not excessive wear.
3. Always check the armpits
As far as I am concerned, this is Number One in terms of importance; I don’t know why it took me so long to do this automatically! Before the days of deodorant, sweat had a habit of damaging fabric due to the acidic qualities of perspiration.
4. Look at the fastenings
Double-check that none of the buttons are missing and the zips are working properly. This may seem like a no-brainer, but all too often I’ve gotten home only to discover that a crucial covered button has fallen off or a zip is faulty. Key areas to check fastenings are around the neck line where small buttons may be hidden under a collar, and also around the cuffs. Whilst you are there, make sure the belt is still attached. If there are belt loops and no belt, it’s OK to ask for a small discount because the garment is no longer complete.
5. Talk to the sales assistants
Don’t be too proud to ask for advice in a shop, especially if you are looking for era-specific garments. This will speed up the learning process and before long you will be having a friendly debate on the age of a frock. Good shopkeepers should know their stock inside out and quite often they will keep special pieces behind for the right customer. It’s also good to develop a relationship with the vendor, as they will start to look out for garments in your size and style. Most vintage sellers are passionate about what they do and are happy to talk to customers about stock, sizes and fair pricing.
6. Go for the best you can afford
Resist the temptation to buy in bulk. Despite years of collecting for the sake of it, I now wish I had stuck to buying garments that were 100% wearable and in my size. My repairs bag is huge and you can’t ‘rescue’ everything. The less you buy, the more you can spend on those show-stopping items!
7. Don’t pay any attention to sizes on labels
Sizing is completely different nowadays, and if there is a size label I’m afraid the best option is to ignore it. To give you an example, I am an 8 but fit an 80s 10, a 60s/70s 12 and a 50s 14. Now, is this because women were smaller or are current brands changing sizes to make us feel better about ourselves? This has not yet been answered, and if you are interested in finding out more read up on Vanity Sizing. Gemma Seager, who writes the Retro Chick blog, is considered to be the industry expert.
8. Always check the bottom of shoes
More often than not, a heel tip will be missing. Check the leather around the buckle and strap for signs of wear and tear. If a leather strap looks cracked, it may break off easily. Make sure the shoe is not too bendy and will hold your weight – this can be achieved only by trying it on. In some cases the shoe’s sole can be reinforced, but this can be costly. Avoid shoes where the leather has stiffened, as they will be uncomfortable to wear.
9. Don’t buy anything that needs a lot of repairs
Don’t be tempted by garments that need altering above and beyond a simple strap shortening or a dropped hem. Scant few alteration shops will do it justice and if the fabric is raw, frayed or thin, it may not last even one cold wash!
10. Don’t be scared to try anything on
If you like it on the hanger, then chances are you will like it on you, but you also shouldn’t shy away from the bizarre; sometimes a hanger can’t convey an item’s true potential, so get it on your body – what’s the worst that could happen? As a vintage personal shopper, this has been the most rewarding element of what I do. If I got a pound every time a customer reluctantly tried on a garment which turned out to be amazing, then I could probably retire!
And finally…here’s a Vintage Shopping Kit List
A tape measure. With this and a good knowledge of your own measurements, you will save yourself a lot of stress finding changing rooms and squeezing into and out of too small items.
A waisted belt to try things on with – dresses can look completely different once they are cinched in.
A handbag with a strap to help free up your hands and avoid having to put things down. (I’ve put things down before, not realized and then seen them sporting a price tag on my next visit!)
A smile – it helps with discounts
Have fun, expect the unexpected and shop with an open mind, as you never know what may turn up.
vintage clothing fairs (where I scored my Pucci wedge sandals), consignment stores (make friends with the owner and they’ll let you know when something special comes in), auctions, on-line sales sites (1st Dibs?), flea markets, estate sales, even yard or garage sales. I bought a one-of-a-kind Fendi baguette from a yard sale of all places. Never used (by the seller that is). In fact it was so cheap that I wondered if it was a knock-off at first. The “best-ever”bag find was bought by a friend of mine – a real steal. She purchased a Louis Vuitton Speedy Bag for only $5.00 and It’s real (major bag envy because I paid full price for mine). So we can benefit from the relatively small group of people who don’t know what they have or just don’t care.
p.s. buy the way, I bought the hard cover book at a garage sale during Modernism week in Palm Springs while out riding my bike.
Girl Who Would be KING on Life, Style and INSPIRATION. 
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