Travel: the forgotten city of PETRA

PETRA might be thousands of years old but it was recently selected as one of the “New 7 Wonders of the World!   A well deserved honour.

If the photograph looks familiar it’s because you’ve seen it before in the last scenes of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.  The “treasury” serves as a secret temple lost for hundreds of years. In the film’s climactic final scenes, actors Harrison Ford and Sean Connery burst forth from the Siq (the narrow gorge passageway leading in) and walk deep into the labyrinths of the Treasury in their quest to find the Holy Grail. But, as usual, archaeological fact bowed to Hollywood fiction when Indy came to Petra.

Photo: d. king
Photo: d. king

Making the trek to Petra infact feels like you could be in an Indiana Jones movie as the lead up is mysterious but once you’re there it is truly an amazing sight to behold.  Hidden deep in the mountains,  one has to be there in person to really witness it as the ancient place is impossible to capture in normal still photographs. Literally carved directly into vibrant red, white, pink, and sandstone cliff faces, the prehistoric Jordanian city of Petra was “lost” to the Western world.  The City was rediscovered by a young Swiss explorer by the name of Johan Ludwig Burckhardt  in 1812.

I made the trek crossing over from the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt (where I was staying) to Eilat in Israel and then over to Petra, in Jordan.  The borders are actually fairly close to each other so it didn’t take as long as it seems – maybe 3 hours.  From Ammn in Jordon we took a bus ride for about two hours along nothing but sand tracks in the desert. Then the fun began; we rode on horseback until we reached the ancient red city carved in rock.  We left our horses there and entered through the very narrow gorge (the Siq, shown in photo above) with a breathtaking view of the building called the “Treasury”.

It is called the “rose red city” for a good  reason.  Temples, tombs and other buildings are all carved out of the red sandstone cliffs.  I’ve never seen anything like it before or since.

At its peak the city of Petra was home to some 20,000 Nabataeans who, in the midst of the desert, built an ingenious system of waterways to provide their city with the precious liquid.

Since the early 1800s, when it was “rediscovered,” clues to daily life in this “lost city of stone” are being unearthed and today we are beginning to see once again what Petra looked like 2,000 years ago.

Situated between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea, Petra was an important crossroads between Arabia, Egypt and Syria-Phoenicia. Petra is half-built, half-carved into the rock, and is surrounded by mountains riddled with passages and gorges. It is one of the world’s most famous archaeological sites, where ancient Eastern traditions blend with Hellenistic architecture.

I feel incredibly lucky that I had the opportunity to make this trek and witness in person the physical splendour of this ancient city.

Travel/Culture: – Oaxaca, Mexico

Mexico has always been good to me.

Church and Plaza Santo Domingo
Church and Plaza Santo Domingo

I’ve visited a variety of places from bustling and busy Tijuana to what used to be known as the sleepy fishing village of Barra de Navidad to the resort towns of Cancun & Playa del Carmen. I worked at one of the Club Meds in Mexico years ago. Never had a bad time or gotten sick.

A restaurant in al centro
A restaurant in al centro

Last week I returned from spending ten days in what is considered to be “the most diverse” state in all of Mexico.  Ten days in vibrant Oaxaca (pronounced wah-hah-ka) is definitely not enough time, but it is just enough time to know that I want to go back.  It was wonderful.

A typical stroll
A typical stroll into town

A friend was house sitting another friends spectacular house high up on a hill with a 180 degree view and invited me to stay.  At the time she told me about it I was considering going to Las Vegas to run a half marathon along the strip at night while listening to rock bands (for something different) but I made the wiser choice.

Many, many of these arches
Many, many of these arches (arquitos)

Before I came to Oaxaca (a UNESCO world heritage site) I thought I knew everything a lot about Mexico.  I was expecting to hear mariachis everywhere and get a plate of chips & salsa delivered to our table as soon as we sat down at any restaurant.  Not so…although you can.  Instead we listened to a combination of Cuban, Jazz, Salsa, Argentine Tango, Classical and a 12-piece brass orchestra visiting from Belgium which took place in the dazzling Macedonio Alcala theatre – all gratis.  Every night there is something different to take in and lots of puppetry, fireworks and dancing.

Monte Albán, built by the Zapotecs, is one of the country's most important ruins.
Monte Albán, built by the Zapotecs, is one of the country’s most important ruins.

So much activity goes on in the town centre amidst local artisans selling their wares, craft shops and street markets.  All the cuisine we had was unbelievably top-notch.  I heard this to be true but had to find out for myself.  The only thing I did not sample were the worms and grasshoppers that are considered delicacies there (I’ll leave that for the locals and was not so brave even to try the crunchy ones).  I might need a whole bottle of Mexcal before doing so.

The inspiring rock formations of a petrified waterfall at Hierve el Aqua.
The inspiring rock formations of a petrified waterfall at Hierve el Aqua.

Here is what else I found besides an amazingly wide variety of food – stunning architecture, rich cultural traditions, important ruins, a great little *Spanish language school where you can sit outside in a garden setting for your lessons, a soft temperate climate (which allows you to sit outside) and Oaxaca’s specialty spirit, mezcal,

I'm not sure I can do this
I’m not sure I can do this
There are many little tasting spots called "mezcalarita's" around town
Many little tasting spots  (mezcalerilas) around town

which is made from dozens of types of agave (unlike tequila, which is made exclusively from blue agave).  Another thing is that you don’t want to have too much of that.  Don’t ask me how I know that…somebody told me. I think it can make you hallucinate.

So I don’t know everything about Mexico but I’m willing to learn.  This is a place I’d like to further explore with a side trip to Huatulco. Not to mention brush up on my Español .  Hasta la próxima vez!

 

Have you been?

 

 

Photos: d. king (double click to enlarge)

*SchoolOaxaca Spanish Magic

Link to my Oaxaca board for more photos on PINTEREST (which I will keep adding to):

http://www.pinterest.com/intrigueimports/oaxaca-mexico/

 

 

Travel/Lifestyle – PET PEEVES

How you can make traveling with your PET EASIER.travel1

Yes, this is a little bit out of the norm but why not shake it up a bit.  The holidays are fast approaching and too many people have animals they want to travel with including me.  So this piece written by Rebecca Ledger (Vancouver Sun – Arts & Life, Tuesday, October 7th, 2014) will probably help those who wish to take their pets along for the ride.

Dogs are always excited to go for a car ride but, getting travel-phobic pets from A to B without barking, whining, pacing and throwing up en route is already on many owners’ minds.  Nausea, anxiety and unruly behaviour on car journeys are common problems, affecting around 20 per cent of pet dogs. This equates not only to thousands of miserable animals, but more critically, a lot of distracted driving.

What can we do to ensure that we reach our destination relaxed, in one piece and without the car smelling of vomit? Many solutions are available, but which ones actually work?

The first step is to identify if and why your dog is distressed, as different causes require different treatments. If your dog experiences motion sickness, recognizable by hyper-salivation, retching, vomiting and sometimes diarrhea, a visit to your veterinarian to get an anti-nausea product is a good call. Currently, Cerenia is the only FDA-approved product for the treatment motion sickness in dogs, although your veterinarian may recommend other products instead, such as Gravol or Benadryl. Some anti-nausea medications also sedate, so your veterinarian will need to know what shape your dog needs to be in when it reaches its destination.  Bear in mind that not all anti-nausea products made for humans are safe for all pets, so check with your veterinarian first what and how much to give.

Even if an anti-nausea product is effective, some dogs continue to dread getting into the car, sometimes anticipating the nausea of journeys-past. Travel anxiety also occurs in dogs that have suffered a traumatic event in a vehicle, such as an accident, or that have shocked by an electronic collar as they pass through an ‘invisible fence’ at the perimeter of their property. Dogs that have not got used to car rides from a young age and puppies too are at a greater risk of having travel-related anxiety and nausea.

Anxious dogs behave in a variety of ways. Once having been lured or perhaps forced into the car, some pets develop a full-blown stress response. Keep an eye out for excessive salivation, panting, trembling and an elevated heart rate. Seeing your windows fog up and covered in slobber are telltale signs.  Some anxious dogs will also whine, whimper, pin their ears back and tuck their tails between their legs. Also, watch for dogs that raise their front paw, yawn and lick their lips frequently.

Anxious dogs require weeks, if not months, of ‘systematic desensitization training’ to eventually feel safe in their vehicle. This involves gradual exposure to being in a parked vehicle, being in a parked vehicle with the engine running, and eventually short, tolerable trips that end before a panic attack is underway. However, when time is of the essence, again there are band-aid products that can help to alleviate the discomfort for stressed pets.

Your veterinarian may prescribe an anti-anxiety medication or sedative to help your pet stay calm. But, these products do not always have the desired effect. Recall the child on the airplane bouncing off the cabin walls instead of sleeping soundly after a dose of Benadryl? Well, some dogs can show similar paradoxical effects to sedatives. For this reason, make time to test these medications in advance of your trip.

For owners who prefer to avoid medications, low-risk, non-prescription products are also available. However, peer-reviewed clinical studies suggest that their effect is slight, with some pets failing to respond at all.

DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromone, available from your veterinary clinic) calms dogs without sedating them. But, when clinically tested, while some nauseas dogs improved, it had no significant impact on excitable dogs. Conversely, diffused lavender oil reduces dog activity during car rides, but has no proven effect on anxiety. In one clinical trial, dogs treated with lavender aromatherapy spent more time sitting or lying down quietly than a Control group.

The Thundershirt also claims to help calm anxious dogs during travel, although, a study published this year in the Journal of Veterinary Behaviour found that its effects were minimal. This body-hugging wrap had no significant effect on a dog’s heart rate or behaviour during transit, unless the dog was already on an anti-anxiety medication, in which case it helped a little.

To conclude, if your dog is distressed on car rides, prescription products work best. And, while non-prescription solutions can chip away at mild issues, they don’t provide as much value for money and have insufficient effect in more severe cases. So, if you can’t see your veterinarian in time for your trip, and the non-prescription items don’t quite cut it for your dog, try to stick to the highways — drivers can do their part by avoiding erratic movements, sharp turns and bumpy roads. Transporting your pet on an empty stomach can also help avert problems. Or, if all else fails, maybe think about spending the holidays at home with your dog this year!

Rebecca Ledger is an animal behaviour scientist.  Read her blog at vancouversun.com/pets

Butterflies of Pismo Beach – Long Live our Monarch

the BUTTERFLY!birds7

I couldn’t believe my eyes when the leaves in the trees started to come to life!  It is a natural phenomenon – a sight to behold.

Each year thousands of vibrant orange and black Monarch Butterflies flock to Pismo Beach, seeking shelter from the freezing northern winters. From late October to February, the butterflies cluster in the limbs of a grove of Eucalyptus trees at Pismo State Beach.  A beautiful place where I camped on several occasions.

Sleepytime
Sleeping

The butterflies form dense clusters (as in the above photo) with each one hanging with its wing down over the one below it to form a shingle effect. This provides shelter from the rain and warmth for the group. The weight of the cluster help keeps it from whipping in the wind and dislodging the butterflies.

Waking up!
Waking up!  This photo from website

The colony at Pismo Beach (home of the beach blanket bingo movies with Frankie Avalon & Annette Funicello in the mid 60’s should anyone care) is one of the largest in the nation, hosting an average of 25,000 butterflies over the years but the numbers have exceeded a quarter million.

The annual Monarch butterfly migration in Michoacan, Mexico is the largest in the world and is a famous top attraction for visitors.  I have yet to see it. Can there be anything more beautiful?

Photos: d. king

http://www.monarchbutterfly.org/

Travel/Luxury: the Exclusive “all-inclusive”

Le blanc spa resort – Cancunleblanc5

I’m not usually into all-inclusive vacations but I think I can resort to this.  leblanc11My brother and his girlfriend just got back from Le blanc spa resort in Cancun and by what they described and by the looks of these photos it makes me want to jump on a plane right now.  In actuality I will be heading on a plane soon enough to go to a different part of Mexico but I know I won’t be getting my own private butler there.  More on this later.

Le blanc spa resort is aleblanc4 luxurious environment with an all white décor to match the all white sandy beaches. It is an adults-only all-inclusive nestled along the sparkling blue waters of the Caribbean.  It is apparently a world onto itself.leblanc6

The staff is trained to serve you and make you feel that this is not your typical resort.  Service is professional, prompt and polite.  The staff looks as good as they are (I read this) and the private butler is a real plus!  The dining is fine world class. The rooms are clean with private Jacuzzi and French balcony with views of lagoon and resort or common areas.  leblanc8The spa is a sanctuary.  They have an amazing fitness facility which also offers yoga & pilates.

It comes highly recommended by some very picky people.  It seems like a dream vacation.  And what about that butler?leblanc12

I think I can do this!

http://www.leblancsparesort.com/

 

Utah: American Splendor

PARKS & RECREATION plus a bit of History.

Here are two miracles of nature that I highly recommend visiting not only for the breathless beauty of their rugged landscapes which makes for great hiking, but for the spiritual connection.

Arches National Park, Utahparks2

300 million years of patient erosion has resulted in unbelievably dramatic landscapes.  Here you will find the world’s largest concentration of natural stone arches. This National Park is a red, arid desert, punctuated with oddly eroded sandstone forms, balanced rocks, and arches. The 73,000-acre region has over 2,000 of these “miracles of nature.”

Monument Valley, Arizona.

parks1

Look familiar?  You’ve seen it many times in many westerns (John Wayne spent a lot of time filming here).

Monument Valley provides perhaps the most enduring and definitive images of the American West.

from photo shoot Bazaar Magazine
from photo shoot Bazaar Magazine

One of the grandest – and most photographed  landmarks (just look at these two magazine pages) in the United States, Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is a sprawling, sandy preserve that spans the border between Arizona and Utah, bathing the region in rich red hues.

Dominated by crimson mesas and surreal sandstone towers – some as tall as 1,000 feet – the area is also known for dramatic, mesmerizing lighting, with the sun illuminating the towers and casting long shadows on the valley floor.

Bazaar Magazine
Bazaar Magazine

Alamo, *San Antonio, Texas

parks3

Located in the heart of one of the Nations top 10 largest cities, the Alamo is a must-see.  In 1960, the story of the Alamo became bigger than life when John Wayne starred as Davy Crockett in a movie about the battle.

The History of the Alamo – a timeline:

The March 6, 1836 Battle of the Alamo was preceded by many battles between the newly arrived Texas colonists, called Texians, and the Mexican military. Texas was Mexican territory, following Mexico’s independence from Spain in 1821, and the settlers arriving from the United States wanted their independence from Mexico. But the story of the Alamo itself began more than 100 years earlier.  Find out more at:http://visitsanantonio.com/english/Explore-San-Antonio/

*San Antonio has a lot of other things going for it besides “the Alamo.”  It has a happening music scene, art museum and the beautiful River Walk with a host of attractions like restaurants, shops and hotels.

SourcesArches National Parkhttp://www.visitutah.com/parks-monuments/national-parks/arches/

Monument Valley, Arizonahttp://www.visitarizona.com/places-to-visit/arizona-parks-monuments/monument-valley-navajo-tribal-park

Photos: d. king

 

 

 

 

Jake’s in Jamaica – Dream Destination

When you just want to RELAX with no outside interruptions – the very essence of a perfect vacation…you might want to go to Jake’s Treasure Beach, Jamaica.jakes1

Jamaica is a great place to unwind but when you think of places to travel in Jamaica what usually comes to mind?  Is it fast paced and touristy Montego Bay, Ocho Rios for newlyweds and honeymooners or Negril for miles and miles of white sand beach and many all-inclusives? 20141005_193909

When I travel I love to explore places off the beaten path and find little hidden treasures. If you drive for one hour outside Montego Bay you will find a beautiful tropical countryside with breathtaking views of fishing villages, beaches, centuries old great houses, natural waterfalls and wetlands.  You’ll find the South Coast of Jamaica.20141005_193605

Stumbled upon this stylishly funky hotel/spa by accident while driving along the South Coast. It’s a world away from the island’s  high-pressure resort towns. 20141005_193409 A welcome opposite of Ocho Rios while still maintaining tropical charm with a beautiful low-key seafront setting and lovely gardens. The brightly painted cottages stretch along the water’s edge, in the sleepy settlement of Treasure Beach in south-west Jamaica. Centred on a lovely open-air dining ‘room’, the pool and Dougie’s bar, Jakes has really lovely, raffish Jamaican charm.

The Bar
The Bar

The PROS:

  • Friendly staffers who know every guest by name
  • On-site art classes for everyone, all ages
  • Daily yoga and Pilates workshops
  • One of Jamaica’s best spas
  • Excellent restaurant with fresh, locally produced Jamaican fare.
  • No nearby tourist attractions or nightlife20141005_193718

 THE CONS:                                                                                                                        Remote location on the South Coast                                                                                  No nearby tourist attractions                                                                                                No nightlife                                                                                                                          Coarse black-sand beaches less desirable for swimming                                                    A  hike – two hour drive ($120 by taxicab) from Montego Bay’s airport                                No in-room TV, phone, or Internet

20141005_193534

In a NUTSHELL:

With just 30 hippy-chic cottages in secluded Treasure Beach, Jake’s is a member of Bespoke Hotels, a trendy, luxury hotel group. Guests come to unplug — there’s no phone, Internet, or TV in the cottages (but there are CD players and CD’s in each room with an extensive CD library). The black-sand beaches aren’t Jamaica’s most impressive, but the Driftwood Spa, on-site painting classes for all and yoga/pilates workshops, and excellent locally prepared food make this a particular favorite.20141005_194217And that is exactly why I recommend Jake’s.

And if you’re lucky there may be some other hidden treasures…but we can’t discuss them here.  If you catch my drift wood.

Photos: d. king                                                                                           http://www.jakeshotel.com/

Travel/Lifestyle/ART – Tuscany

la dolce vitaitaly1

 It’s pretty  straightforward.  I want to live like an Italian.italy8

There are too many likes.  From the Renaissance paintings and sculptures of artists like Michaelangelo and Botticelli in Florence,  to medieval villages, historical towns, castles and country churches scattered all over a vast territory of rolling hills.  Romantic architecture abounds.

the house that was used to film "Under the Tuscan Sun"
the house that was used to film “Under the Tuscan Sun”

italy3

Simply prepared delicious food: lunch on the terrace overlooking ancient vines and olive groves, wine, olive oil, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Aceto Balsamicos, and Gelatos.

Vespas and fast luxury cars like Ferrari, Lamborghini, Pagani & Maserati.

 

Style in general which includes a well-tailored desire to look alla moda.

italy7italy6italy4
I want to live like an italy9Italian.  

I’m sure I missed a few things but this pretty much sums it up.

Photos: d. king

Pagani
Pagani

Vespa2 - Copy

italy

 

Travel/Lifestyle – Tree messages vs e-messages

In today’s age where everyone has either the latest Android or iPhone who has time to leave a handwritten message?  Texting is where it’s at!  History reveals itself…message5To go back in time…well just a little, to the romanticism of the handwritten note.  There is a centuries old Acacia tree (knows as the Thorn Tree) in the heart of Nairobi where travelers have been leaving messages pinned to its branches over the years to date.  The messages reveal personalities that will enthrall you with their heartfelt charm, humor and occasional romance.message4 It is found at the legendary bistro style pavement café of yesteryear called the “Thorn Tree Café” at the Sarova Stanley hotel.  It is a Nairobi landmark known as the country’s first luxury hotel, a place many people stay before heading out to safari including yours truly.  The message board is situated in the centre of the restaurant.

The Stanley (now the Sarova Stanley) played host to a long line of living legends including Ernest Hemingway.  It was in a Stanley hotel room during 1933/34 he stayed recuperating from an illness following a hunting trip to Kilimanjaro and thought up themes and wrote some of his famous short stories and books, several of which mentioned the Sarova Stanley. message3These books, which were to make him a household name across the world, included The Green Hills of Africa (1935); The Snows of Kilimanjaro (1936); and The Happy Ending, retitled The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber.

The Stanley has also been, at various times, the base for classic Hollywood film idols such as Stewart Granger, Clark Gable, Ava Gardner, Grace Kelly, and Gregory Peck. Not to mention notable entertainers like Old Blue Eyes, Frank Sinatra, who at the time was married to Ava Gardner. This shows its rich heritage and epitomizes affluence that appeals the elite class and celebrities who are searching for top hotels in Nairobi.

In recent times the hotel has hosted modern stars like Isabella Rossellini (Blue Velvet, Wild at heart), Michael Caine, Sidney Poitier (To Sir with Love), Barbra Streisand and James Bond himself, the ageless Sean Connerymessage2message1

From time immemorial the café has been the perfect meeting place for friends and offers a remarkable dining experience in the central business district. It has a deli counter, serves pizzas from a wood-fired oven, fresh juices, beers, the widest range of coffees and a varied menu which includes popular continental and nouvelle dishes.

‘Tree mail’ endures despite email and the Thorn Tree Café flourishes as the crossroads of Africa.

Side Note: For some reason I’ve followed Ernest Hemingway’s travels without really meaning to – at least I didn’t plan it that way.  He had a fascinating life and really knew how to live (maybe too much so) so from Havana to Key West to Nairobi I found myself visiting his famous hangouts. Which makes me wonder – can you be considered someone’s stalker if that person is no longer alive?

Stone Town, Zanzibar –  a step back in time

dhow2Like legendary Timbuktu or Kathmandu – the name alone is almost reason enough to make the trip.

Exotic Zanzibar is a maze of narrow streets, winding alleys, bustling bazaars, crooked passages and crumbling houses with overhanging balconies. But there is romance a plenty on this island with collectible antiques, local wood carvings, spice market and historical hotels.

but then there's this hotel - the Manta Resort if you're looking for James Bond type experience of staying underwater.
but then there’s this new under water hotel – the Manta Resort if you’re looking for a James Bond type experience…and who isn’t?

Zanzibar Door 3From Dar es Salaam in Tanzania, we boarded a ferry boat to lengendary Zanzibar and spent the day wandering around exotic old Stone Town.  The name is appropriate considering all the old stone walkways.Zanzibar Window 2Zanzibar window 1

Stone Town is the old city and cultural heart of Zanzibar where little has changed in the last 200 years (except for the hotel above). The original owners of the many grand Arab houses vied with each other over the extravagance of their dwellings. This one-upmanship is particularly reflected in the brass-studded, carved, wooden doors – there are more than 500 different examples of this handiwork. You can spend many idle hours and days just wandering through the fascinating labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways. The symbol of Zanzibar is the dhow boat (photo above).  Many of these boats can be seen along the shores ferrying people around the island and taking fishermen out for the day’s catch.

Stone Town was recently and deservedly declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.Zanzibar fruit stand

The market is a great place to visit even if you don’t want to buy anything. It is a vibrant place where everything under the sun is bought and sold. People bring their produce here from all over the island, and other people come to buy things they can’t get in their own villages. Of special interest is the huge selection of brightly coloured kangas (worn by the local women, it is a rectangle of pure cotton cloth with a border all around it, printed in bold zanzibar1designs and bright colours) and the auctions that are held regularly.  I brought back many colourful striped scarves and two chunky neckpieces not normally my style (shown here in photos).

a chunky turquouse/coral/amber neckpiece
old turquoise/coral/amber choker

jewelryzanzibar2

Zanzibar – an Island Tour:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTPhCjQvQc0

Source: Zanzibar.net and the book called “1,000 places to see before you die” – a traveler’s life list by Patricia Schultz.

 A MAZE ing!
A MAZE ing!

 Have you been?

 

Photos: Lisa King (except for Manta Resort).