Growing up in Montreal I can certainly say that it is unlike any other city in Canada or anywhere else for that matter. I’ve travelled all over Canada, lived in Toronto for several years and made Vancouver my home. You can’t have it all! A city is like a relationship – neither will give you everything you need.
As much as I love living in Vancouver for the proximity to nature, I have to admit I really missed the energy and joie de vivre of Montreal. I was able to relive some of it on my recent trip.
In this post I want to share some of the old Montreal hangouts & establishments that are still around.
Although, at the bottom of this page I share a link to a previous exposé I wrote about Montreal in its absolute heyday when it was way further ahead of Toronto – for those who are still around and lived through it, only heard about it or want to know about it. The book “CITY UNIQUE” was as
original as its author William (Bill) Weintraub. The writer, filmmaker, historian and part time provocateur began his career at the Montreal Gazette and was a friend to my uncle Frank (who wrote a column for the Gazette). They both shared a close bond with writing cohorts Mordecai Richler (“THE APPRENTICESHIP OF DUDDY KRAVITZ”), Brian Moore (“BELFAST”) and Mavis Gallant (“PARIS STORIES”). I loved it when my uncle would invite me over to the old Press Club on rue de La Montagne which at the time was an old boys club. I have a feeling if it still exists it’s not the same.
Weintraub especially was a walking history book of Montreal in the 20th century — one filled with amazing stories of mobsters and mayors. Made an Officer of the Order of Canada in 2003, Weintraub never learned whether Jacques Parizeau saw the humour in his 1992 documentary, “THE RISE AND FALL OF ENGLISH MONTREAL.” although the former Quebec premier had requested a special screening of the film.
My uncle Frank and Bill Weintraub along with many of the original city classic characters, are now sadly gone. Ironically, news of Weintraub’s death came around the same time the city was fêting another of its famed cultural sons, Leonard Cohen, in a tribute concert at the Bell Centre marking the one-year anniversary of his passing.
Characters are what make a City Unique don’t you think?
On this last trip I decided to book a hotel room for several nights in the midtown Montreal area. There were happenings around that part of town that I wanted easy access to get to, also somewhere not too far from the airport, close to a highway, smoked meat and a metro. I found the perfect solution for all of that at hotel Ruby Foo’s.
Some things do not remain the same…
For over half a century The Ruby Foo’s brand has been a mainstay in Montréal culture. The Chinese restaurant was a famous hangout and I remember going there on many occasions with my parents. It opened in the 1950’s and quickly became the go-to place for egg rolls and chicken almond gui ding. And for the less adventurous, there was always a club sandwich. The restaurant established itself as the place to see and be seen. Everyone from Politicians, Broadway stars, Movie Stars, the business and sporting elite all made Ruby Foo’s the top spot in the city. It was class personified, fun and lively. I went solely for the Chinese food not realizing that eventually I’d be living in a city that’s known to have the best Chinese food outside of Beijing.
Then came the Ruby Foo’s hotel which first opened its doors in 1962 and quickly became an ideal destination for both business and leisure travelers. Then in 1984, a group of developers acquired the property with the vision of turning it into a 198-room hotel complex, including a mini convention centre, restaurant, commercial space and office tower. They succeeded. Sadly, the original restaurant was closed for good in 1984.
In recent years, the architectural firm of Lemay Michaud, which has built a reputation for its work on luxury and boutique hotels throughout Canada and North America has revamped the 4-star hotel complex to 198 spacious bedrooms, 6,000 square feet of meeting space in eight banquet halls, two restaurants, a barbershop (not a beauty parlour for women unfortunately – I did take exception to this), an outdoor seasonal pool and state of the art gym.
Overall I enjoyed my stay there. It was reasonably priced especially considering that it was high season. With so many hotels fully booked and knowing this, I booked about two months in advance. It’s clean, beds are extremely comfortable, comes with the essentials; an espresso maker, a safety deposit box, plush robes and mini fridge. The restaurant ‘Eggspectation‘ for breakfast was very good. Didn’t make it to the evening bar/restaurant. The gym is well equipped (my brother told me) and the pool area is nice except for how you reach these two places. They need to re-do the ground floor windy hallway area which gives you access to the gym and pool. I’m surprised it has absolutely no personality. Other than that, the hotel staff was really helpful and pleasant and it was very easy access to everything I mentioned. I would stay there again. Of course if you’re looking for a high end luxury hotel you want the Ritz Carlton (nothing beats the Ritz) and if you want more of a stylish boutique feel you might prefer Le Petit Hotel in Old Montreal. But for overall convenience to everywhere and price point, Ruby Foo’s is pretty decent. These are 3 totally different stays.
Casing the joints…
Montréal’s restaurant scene is one of the best in the world. From fine dining restaurants to casual eateries, the sheer variety satiates all palates.
The Orange Julep is pure nostalgia and located right across the street from the hotel. It’s an iconic giant orange orb drive in and takeout place for really good hot dogs, creamy orange drinks (they have their own secret recipe) & fries. I remember going as a kid with my parents where they come out to take your order and deliver it to the car. No drive in window. My mom would always order the Michigan Red Hot. It’s a hot dog covered in a meaty spaghetti sauce. It actually originated in Plattsburgh, New York – the closest American border for us to go cross border shopping, where we went on occasion.
For smoked meat sandwiches Schwartz’s still remains everyone’s favourite and a true Montreal classic. Located on Blvd Saint-Laurent, when you walk through those doors you take a step back 95 years. You have to lineup outside no matter who you are and wait your turn. You never know who you’re going to sit with too as they sit you wherever there’s space – everyone gets treated the same. You can rub elbows with politicians, movie stars (Elizabeth Taylor was one) to the local poet and blue collar workers. You won’t find better smoked meat anywhere else. My dad knew all the owners (family run and passed down the line) and we’d always order a slightly fatty sandwich with a black cherry cola and side of sour pickles while my mom preferred rib-eye steak. At this time Moishe’s #1 steakhouse was located right above, but she’d order the one from Schwartz’s.
However, Dunn’s is only a two block walk from Ruby Foo’s hotel and my second most favourite for smoked meat when I can’t get to Schwartz’s. They’re known for their famous cheesecake which I’ve made before and put a link to their recipe at the bottom. You’re welcome.
Le Steakhouse Rib ‘N Reef has a reputation over the course of 63 years for gastronomic expertise. It’s a swanky landmark for charbroiled meats & seafood, with a rooftop terrace and large wine & cigar lists. I think it’s a bit less than a two block walk from Ruby Foo’s. I met my childhood bestie there for dinner where we both ordered filet Oscar off the table d’hôte menu. They still maintain the old style of coming to your table to make Caesar salad. Both the meal and seeing my friend made for an exceptional evening.
Unfortunately the live music is no longer. The Maître d‘ laughed at me when I asked what time the music started. It’s been a while.
Moishe’s in Old Montreal may still remain number one:
Founded in 1938 by Moishe Lighter, it was initially called “Romanian Paradise.” Legend has it that Lighter, an immigrant from Romania to Canada, became the owner of the restaurant in a card game. That’s when anything was wide open for negotiation if you catch my drift. The restaurant’s name was changed to “Moishes” at the outset of World War II.
After all this I should tell you that Montreal also hosts an abundance of good health food restaurants too, including vegan. Just in case you’re wondering. It’s not only bagels, poutine, smoked meat and steak.
I think this concludes my look back on Montreal edition. At least until the next time. I hope you enjoyed some of the history and stories.
An interesting and provocative look back:
My previous Post on Montreal days and nights in the book CITY UNIQUE:
Ruby Foo’s Hotel:
https://www.hotelrubyfoos.com/en
Dunn’s famous Cheesecake Recipe:
https://www.food.com/recipe/dunns-famous-cheesecake-recipe-461888
And finally: some tips on healthy ways to lose weight (especially after indulging on a trip such as this):
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