Love the Retro look but not sure about shopping vintage?
Lily & Cie – Los Angeles
Locating the best pre-loved pieces can be tricky but definitely worthwhile for those who love that extra attention to detail. The stores mentioned here fail to capture the true essence of what they really are. They offer so much more. They are run by truly obsessive people – scholars, men and women who can spot a 1966 vs. a 1968 YSLwomen’s tuxedo on the street, who can call out a fake Chanel jacket from a sample of thread. This is not your typical thrift shop deal although people have been known to occasionally spot a great find from one or even a rummage, garage or sidewalk sale.
Lily et Cie in Beverly Hills may just be the original fashion archive, the store that made vintage acceptable, wearable and cool. Owner Rita Watkin, known to be notoriously picky, is a true character with an encyclopaedic knowledge of fashion. Her story: before founding Lily et Cie, she worked at Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Valentino and YSL. One day, she inherited a prestigious collection of 20th Century fashion (that today rivals that of the Met and the Louvre) from a close family friend. She stored it for years until word spread and she finally opened up shop in the 80’s. On a visit years ago, we spotted John Galliano and his entourage (circa the Christian Dior years) taking notes and seeking inspiration. Ahhhh.
Renée Zellwegger & Penélope Cruz – both in Lily & Cie dresses.
Picked up from Lily et Cie – the iconic yellow Jean Desses worn by Renée Zellwegger to the Oscars. Gorgeous on her! And of course, Penélope Cruz looks great in anything but check out this Balmain princess frock also worn to the Oscars -where she won for Vicky Christina Barcelona.
Then…there’s:
Decades on Melrose, known as Hollywood’s destination for the finest vintage couture and modern luxury consignment.
Decades
Cameron Silver and Christos Garkinos, aka The Dukes of Melrose, run a vintage store so revered in Hollywood that it had its own TV show on Bravo. In fact, Cameron has literally written the book on fashion. It’s name? Decades. Hand-picked items are displayed in their deluxe boutique in such a way that customers can truly see each piece for what it is – vintage couture. Cameron says it best, “When Decades opened in 1997, vintage was still rather socially unacceptable and people were turned off by wearing something ‘used.’ However, Decades educated the savvy fashionista that vintage is a modern way to differentiate your style and the edit has always been about ‘vintage that looks modern.'”
“There isn’t a season that goes by that a designer doesn’t reference the iconic Norman Norell mermaid gowns of the 1960’s. Marc Jacobs recently showed several variations. Whether fully covered like a second skin or a more bare halter style, the flat paillettes look magically applied to the body in a very sensual manner that remains timeless nearly 60 years after this dress was designed. This is pure glamour.”
70’s Courreges
“One of the big trends this fall is the introduction of the oversized bold pattern coat. Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo have both proposed this fresh silhouette in recent collections. This is a late 70’s Courreges check coat that has the spirit of the current runway looks.”\
Early 80’s Kenzo
“Everyone’s mad for plaid this season, and the grunge-redux look can easily be luxe’d up with a vintage Kenzo shirt. I love this worn casually with jeans or a leather legging. Don’t be afraid to wear it tied around your waist with a tank top for a rocker-chic vibe.”
Ruth Myers, a true vintage fiend and the costume designer for movies like L.A. Confidential, Emma and The Addams Family, gives us her top list of vintage dealers in the two cities she calls home, L.A. and London.
Kim Basinger – L.A. Confidential
“In London, I love the stalls in Alfie’s Market. Tintin is incredibly classy, and the owner Leslie has a ton of knowledge and has wonderful treasures, as does June Victor on the top floor. I also love the basement at Gray’s Antique Market off Bond Street, Portobello market on Saturday mornings and Annie’s, Cloud Cuckoo Land and Dreamtime in Camden Passage, Islington, and it’s always worth a trail through Camden Market.”
content for Decades & Lily & Cie taken goop.com mag #11
Consulting this book is a good idea before hitting your local pre-loved boutique.
Since good quality vintage can be pricey and the sizes confusing, we asked the UK’s leading vintage stylist, personal shopper (and author of new book Style Me Vintage) Naomi Thompson to create a guide on finding the best items. Read on..
1. Be prepared
Arm yourself with garments that are easy to get out of; something you can slip on and off without fuss – my favourite uniform for vintage shopping is a button-down dress. Wear minimal make-up. Many vintage garments do up at the side and have to go over your head, rather than over your hips, so whilst it’s tempting to don a red lippy to get into the spirit of things, it’s best not to smear it all over the neck of a yellow 50s frock. You won’t be judged in a shop for not looking the part.
2. Always hold garments up to the light
Have you noticed how dark vintage shops can be? Well, it’s not always intentional (they can just be cluttered places), but it sure does make it harder to spot flaws. By holding it up to the light you can instantly see any holes or repairs. The light will also shine through any patches where the fabric has become too thin and delicate. With woolen garments, check the elbows to make sure there is not excessive wear.
3. Always check the armpits
As far as I am concerned, this is Number One in terms of importance; I don’t know why it took me so long to do this automatically! Before the days of deodorant, sweat had a habit of damaging fabric due to the acidic qualities of perspiration.
4. Look at the fastenings
Double-check that none of the buttons are missing and the zips are working properly. This may seem like a no-brainer, but all too often I’ve gotten home only to discover that a crucial covered button has fallen off or a zip is faulty. Key areas to check fastenings are around the neck line where small buttons may be hidden under a collar, and also around the cuffs. Whilst you are there, make sure the belt is still attached. If there are belt loops and no belt, it’s OK to ask for a small discount because the garment is no longer complete.
5. Talk to the sales assistants
Don’t be too proud to ask for advice in a shop, especially if you are looking for era-specific garments. This will speed up the learning process and before long you will be having a friendly debate on the age of a frock. Good shopkeepers should know their stock inside out and quite often they will keep special pieces behind for the right customer. It’s also good to develop a relationship with the vendor, as they will start to look out for garments in your size and style. Most vintage sellers are passionate about what they do and are happy to talk to customers about stock, sizes and fair pricing.
6. Go for the best you can afford
Resist the temptation to buy in bulk. Despite years of collecting for the sake of it, I now wish I had stuck to buying garments that were 100% wearable and in my size. My repairs bag is huge and you can’t ‘rescue’ everything. The less you buy, the more you can spend on those show-stopping items!
7. Don’t pay any attention to sizes on labels
Sizing is completely different nowadays, and if there is a size label I’m afraid the best option is to ignore it. To give you an example, I am an 8 but fit an 80s 10, a 60s/70s 12 and a 50s 14. Now, is this because women were smaller or are current brands changing sizes to make us feel better about ourselves? This has not yet been answered, and if you are interested in finding out more read up on Vanity Sizing. Gemma Seager, who writes the Retro Chick blog, is considered to be the industry expert.
8. Always check the bottom of shoes
More often than not, a heel tip will be missing. Check the leather around the buckle and strap for signs of wear and tear. If a leather strap looks cracked, it may break off easily. Make sure the shoe is not too bendy and will hold your weight – this can be achieved only by trying it on. In some cases the shoe’s sole can be reinforced, but this can be costly. Avoid shoes where the leather has stiffened, as they will be uncomfortable to wear.
9. Don’t buy anything that needs a lot of repairs
Don’t be tempted by garments that need altering above and beyond a simple strap shortening or a dropped hem. Scant few alteration shops will do it justice and if the fabric is raw, frayed or thin, it may not last even one cold wash!
10. Don’t be scared to try anything on
If you like it on the hanger, then chances are you will like it on you, but you also shouldn’t shy away from the bizarre; sometimes a hanger can’t convey an item’s true potential, so get it on your body – what’s the worst that could happen? As a vintage personal shopper, this has been the most rewarding element of what I do. If I got a pound every time a customer reluctantly tried on a garment which turned out to be amazing, then I could probably retire!
And finally…here’s a Vintage Shopping Kit List
A tape measure. With this and a good knowledge of your own measurements, you will save yourself a lot of stress finding changing rooms and squeezing into and out of too small items.
A waisted belt to try things on with – dresses can look completely different once they are cinched in.
A handbag with a strap to help free up your hands and avoid having to put things down. (I’ve put things down before, not realized and then seen them sporting a price tag on my next visit!)
A smile – it helps with discounts
Have fun, expect the unexpected and shop with an open mind, as you never know what may turn up.
What You Might Not Know: People often focus on the bag’s quilted leather material, but what was really revolutionary about the 2.55 was the chain strap. Back when Coco Chanel invented it, women used to carry their bags in their hands all the time. What a hassle!
The Bag: Hermès Birkin
Kris Jenner with her Birkin – Getty Images
What You Might Not Know: Lots of people refer to the bags as coming in two different hardware options: gold and silver. But that’s not silver! It’s actually palladium, a metal Hermès uses expressly because it never tarnishes. Good thing, considering what an investment one of these bags is.
The Bag: Fendi Baguette
Sarah Jessica Parker – Celebrity Street Style
What You Might Not Know: Released in the late 1990s, the Baguette’s the brainchild of the brand’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld (of Chanel fame). How can we forget SJP’s many baguettes on several episodes of Sex & the City. Remember when a guy stole her bag & she yelled after him correcting him that “it’s not a bag…..it’s a baguette!”
The Bag: Louis Vuitton Speedy
What You Might Not Know: It’s easy to associate the Speedy with in-your-face logos, but some of the most timeless, elegantly cool women have loved it through the decades, like Audrey Hepburn. She was a huge fan. This is just a timeless piece that reminds me a bit of a doctors bag.
The Bag: Longchamp
Longchamp carryall – Paris
What You Might Not Know: If you’re not a French speaker, you may not have connected that “pliage” is the French word for fold. (Makes sense, because the most celebrated aspect of the bag is that it folds up, making it beyond ideal for traveling.) A fashionable friend of mine told me it helped her with bringing back extra outfits from Paris & so on an Air France flight I bought the same bag right on the plane (since it was in their duty free magazine & saved me a trip to the store) and I’ve been using it ever since. So light & convenient plus you can fold it tiny & store it in your suitcase (in case you need it). You will!
The Bag: Balenciaga City
Nicole Ritchie – Balenciaga. Getty Images
What You Might Not Know: Originally, Balenciaga executives didn’t like the City bag all that much, and decided not to produce it—crazy, right?—until the designer, Nicolas Ghesquière, pleaded with them to make a few of the City bags as a trial. One just needs to look at the Fashionistas carrying it to know it was indeed the right decision, although personally it was never my favorite.
The Bag: Mulberry Bayswater
Kate Moss with her Mulberry. Getty Images
What You Might Not Know: Mulberry may be all about naming their recent bags after pop culture icons—the Del Rey for Lana Del Rey, the Alexa for Alexa Chung— the King for me but the Bayswater has a different genesis. True to the brand’s British roots, Bayswater’s the name of a West London neighborhood known for leafy streets and Georgian houses.
The anti-Bag: Anya Hindmarch “I’m Not a Plastic Bag” Tote
What You Might Not Know: while people were lining up to buy the cheeky, eco-friendly tote at a New York Whole Foods in 2007, the bag was massively popular everywhere around the globe. Especially in Taiwan, where the $7.50 tote created a riot (a legitimate riot!) upon its release.
*Every person in the country was using an average of 167 plastic bags each year, totalling around 10 billion bags. The company wanted to do something that repositioned bringing your own bag to the supermarket as something a little more stylish. Back in 2007, the general public, let alone the fashion elite, wouldn’t be seen dead pulling out a pocket full of old carrier bags at the till.
Confession: I paid about $20 for an eco-friendly grocery bag at Dean & Deluca in Napa because I liked the interesting foodie quotes scribbled all over which made carrying around my groceries more fun & fashionable. A sampling of….What You Might Not Know:
Cacao, means “food of the gods” and “cacao” is a Mayan word meaning ‘God Food’.
Honey is believed to be the only food that does not spoil. It was found in the tombs of the Egyptian pharaohs, tasted by archaeologists and found to still be edible.
The term ‘barista‘ is thrown around very lightly nowadays. In definition, you are not classed as a barista until you have made coffee on a full time basis for 5 years.
Now can the Louis Vuitton’s & the Chanel’s compete with that?
Ahhh the cardigan – the perfect light cover up! I can never have enough cardigans.
Best Looks: From left to right, Michael Kors, No. 21, Alexander Wang, Pringle ofScotland and Burberry. Photo: Garance Doré
A great part of any womans wardrobe. The practicality and convenience a cardigan provides is endless. Long or short, buttoned or unbuttoned, belted or not, without a doubt, classic cardigans are always in style….but some of the newer collections feature large knits with decorative fur & unusual asymmetry – some have no buttons or zippers.
You can choose to belt them or close them with a large safety pin (some would) or large broach.
They’re work appropriate but cardigans can also look sexy on top of light layers and soft fabrics.
There’s a style for every body type. Which is your favorite?
Fashion week may be over in Paris, but one of its highlights carries on through January 26, 2014. The Palais Galliera—a.k.a. the Museum of Fashion—re-opened its doors last Tuesday, after four years of dusty renovation. In between shows, crowds have been rushing to admire its successful facelift and the city’s first retrospective of the legendary couturier Azzedine Alaïa.
Azzedine Alaïa’s body-con designs defined the aesthetic of Paris in the 80’s
Olivier Saillard, the museum’s director and curator of the exhibit describes Alaïa as one of the last living designers who actually knows how to draw, sew, and model. He is a true artisan of over 30 years. The famous Azzedine technique, which is to sculpt the dresses directly on the models, aims to celebrate women’s bodies, accentuating their assets and hiding their flaws.
photo – Garance Doré
Alaïa, Palais Galliéra, 10 Avenue Pierre ler de Serbie, 75116, September 28, 2013 – January 26, 2014
As much as we want to hang on to Summer, Fall is just around the corner and with these 10 investment pieces you can’t go wrong.
In every woman’s wardrobe, there are places one should splurge and places one should save. Unlike fleeting trends, closet classics—things you’ll love for years to come, regardless of ever-changing fashion fads—are the obvious best place to sink your shopping dollars. Here are 10 splurge-worthystaples that, while guaranteed to take a bigger chunk out of your budget, chances are they’ll be sticking around for awhile.
Black or Camel Coat
COAT
Outerwear trends come and go every autumn, but there are a few coat classics that never change—and two timeless hues in particular, black and camel. A Burberry duffel coat’s casual enough that you won’t have to save it only for special occasions, while a chic peacoat infuses any look with instant prep appeal. As for Max Mara’s beautiful self-belted topper, it’s the sort of piece you could pass down to your daughter or niece one day.
More practical than nearly any other piece of jewelry, a watch adds instant polish and professionalism to any look, and is something you’ll keep for years to come. Why shouldn’t yours be an absolute knockout?
from left: chronograph watch in rose gold/navy, $275, michaelkors.com; medor, $4,050, hermes.com; tank française watch, medium model, $4,700, cartier.us
Patent Pumps
PUMPS
A simple, classic pump works for everything from job interviews to first dates to black-tie weddings to girls’ night out. Find a pair that’s comfy (OK, relatively so) and take the plunge. (Side note: while I love a smooth calfskin heel too, I think there’s something about glossy patent that just adds that extra somethin’ somethin’.)
Though less overtly sexy than the aforementioned stilettos, ballet flats are (or should be, at least) the day-in-day-out workhorses of a modern girl’s footwear wardrobe. Chances are you’ll likely clock more miles in these babies than in your heels,
BALLET
so take care when shopping for them. Porselli and Repetto make beautiful, ballerina-approved versions, and many editors swear by Lanvin’s flattering hidden-wedge take on this sleek staple.
Audrey wore them. Carine Roitfeld lives in them. Kate Moss accessorizes hers to the hilt. A simple black fit-and-flare dress, body-con number or sleek sheath works for pretty much any scenario imaginable and is guaranteed to make you look your absolute best, so it’s a sound item to spend a little extra on.
That said, when you’re in the mood to make even more of a statement, there’s nothing like a boldly patterned party frock. The trick here is to choose one in a relatively classic print—think florals, polka dots or easy geometric graphics.
from left: ruby printed silk crepe de chine and cotton-blend lace dress, $3,220, erdem, net-a-porter.com; garden-print dress, $895, red valentino, saksfifthavenue.com; embellished lace and silk-faille dress, $6,990, oscar de la renta, net-a-porter.com
Perfectly-Fitting Denim
PFD
There’s absolutely nothing—nothing—like finding that amazing pair of derrière-perfecting, leg-lengthening, hip-slimming jeans. Sink a little extra cash into your blues, and they’ll pay for themselves in compliments.
from left: 811 mid-rise skinny leg, $191, jbrandjeans.com; the marrakesh, $168.30, mih-jeans.com; stretch cotton-blend leggings-style jeans, $187, rag & bone jean, net-a-porter.com
Gray Cardigan
GREY CARDIGAN
Yes, black cardigans are great too, but hear me out: when you’re already dressed in head-to-toe noir, sometimes you need another, slightly lighter neutral to keep the look from veering into Morticia Addams territory. In such cases, gray’s your go-to. Heather-colored cardis look equally great with little white dresses, too—as well as pretty much everything in one’s closet.
from left: cashmere and silk-blend cardigan, $640, miu miu, net-a-porter.com; asymmetric hem cardigan, $595, alexander wang, barneys.com; collection cashmere boyfriend cardigan, $238, jcrew.com
Oversized Cashmere or Wool Wrap
WRAP
How do we love our enormous cashmere throws? Let us count the ways: they’re the perfectway to stay warm in snowy weather (when you live in a windy city, a coat alone just doesn’t cut it), they double as blankets (and pillows!) on long plane or car trips and they sort of make us feel like Stevie Nicks. Solid.
If you’re looking for the absolute most reliable place to sink those wardrobe dollars, a classiccarryall’s your best bet. Whether you opt for a classic flap-front 2.55 shoulder bag, a quilted tote or even a tiny crossbody carryall, there’s just no going wrong with anything double-C-adorned. Proenza Schouler’s cult-forming PS1, meanwhile, has made the tricky transition from trend to cool classic with ease. And of course, few can resist the heritage-steeped house of Hermès. While Birkins and Kellys may yield the longest waitlists, we’re currently smitten with the smaller Constance crossbody.
clockwise from left: vintage constance bag, $6,700, hermès, portero.com; ps1 medium leather, $1,695, proenzaschouler.com; classic flap bag, $4,400, chanel.com for locations
Cannes, Nice, St. Tropez, Monaco – I adore all of you! I’ve been to the Côte d’Azur (all the above) just once – but that was enough to make me want to feel like I’m there a lot MORE.
Of course wearing clothing like that from the riviera is a start. That’s why I wear stripes so often. I love the casual elegance of a sophisticated but laid-back sea side town with no rules and lovely yachts. And the nicest gambling casino I’ve ever been to where dressing up is part of the game.
Okay, I’m going on a bit too much – this post is really about the style of the French Riviera – particulary St.Tropez. We’ll leave bathing suits for another time.
is a champagne carryall – the Louis Vuitton iconic Noé bucket bag which has just been re-released in various shades of leather and monogram canvas.
from images – more bags for more bottles, some cash & a lipstick.
In 1932, a Champagne vintner commissioned Louis Vuitton to design a carryall for his precious wares and voilà – the original Noé bag was born. The result – a simple leather bucket bag that safely and stylishly housed five bottles of champagne – four upright and a fifth place upside down in the middle. Now I know why I always loved this bag!
The bag came to represent the free-spirited, effervescent lifestyle of liberated women.
Now, 81 years later, and available starting this month you can find the pint size version – the Noé BB, more suited to the bare essentials – and room enough for a Veuve Clicquot mini or Sofia Coppola blanc de blanc, possibly both.
More and more women are choosing gorgeous underwear as one of life’s little luxuries. Need is debatable, it’s about enjoyment.
From the jf couture collection. With lingerie a woman can feel special every day.
Name me one woman who doesn’t love lace? For every one who does not, there are 1,000 more who do. It’s been in fashion forever. It’s so pretty and feminine that it’s no wonder season after season, lace is featured on catwalks from New York to Paris.
Italian Silk & Tulle with French Lace – handmade in Buenos Aires by jesus fernandez collection
While these exquisite lingerie sets are not your typical everyday wear (but why not?) for most, wearing them brings you up a notch in the glamor department or at least it makes you feel that way which is the most important.
Chantilly Lace and a Pretty Face makes for a winning combo
Chantilly handmade lace is known for its fine ground, outlined pattern and abundant detail. Today’s resurgence in fashion for all things bedecked with ribbons and bows have hip lingerie designers turning to vintage details for their divine INspiration.
Italian Satin & embroidered French Lace. No wonder she’s smokin HOT!
From the jesus fernandez (made in Buenos Aires) RETRO collection – *french sizing. Available in very limited supply at http://www.intrigueimports.com
*Make sure to check the sizing chart on website for the equivalent North American sizes.
We’re celebrating GLOBAL STYLE with elegant ethnic prints. They were everywhere to be found on the Spring/Summer 2013 runways but they mostly remain constant.
The world just got bigger. Remember when you bought that exotic colorful dress and jewelry on one of your faraway travels? Remember once home you couldn’t wait to wear them only to feel they just kind of looked out of place? Now in fashion you can incorporate almost any fabric into your look and not feel too out of touch. Have a look at some recent trends….
50 Shades or more. Okay, so I’m just one more person making a play on words of “that” book and I haven’t even read it. But the title did get me thinking of all the glorious variations on this timeless hue. Grey is classic like black and white –a wardrobe staple that never goes out of season. A neutral (never boring) shade that can be worn with almost every color and dressed up with accessories. It suits almost every skin tone too. It’s a great basic to any outfit.
Some name dropping: Feather, Heather, Dove, Gunmetal, Charcoal, Pebble, Pewter, Platinum, Oyster, Pearl, Cement, Ash, Nickel, Mica, Iron, Hematite…..any more that you can think of?
So, how do you like all the choices? I personally love to incorporate a little something African, Hispanic, Indian or Asian inspired – it makes for an interesting mix and makes the world go round.
Girl Who Would be KING on Life, Style and INSPIRATION. 
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