PETRA might be thousands of years old but it was recently selected as one of the “New 7 Wonders of the World”! A well deserved honour.
If the photograph looks familiar it’s because you’ve seen it before in the last scenes of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. The “treasury” serves as a secret temple lost for hundreds of years. In the film’s climactic final scenes, actors Harrison Ford and Sean Connery burst forth from the Siq (the narrow gorge passageway leading in) and walk deep into the labyrinths of the Treasury in their quest to find the Holy Grail. But, as usual, archaeological fact bowed to Hollywood fiction when Indy came to Petra.
Photo: d. king
Making the trek to Petra infact feels like you could be in an Indiana Jones movie as the lead up is mysterious but once you’re there it is truly an amazing sight to behold. Hidden deep in the mountains, one has to be there in person to really witness it as the ancient place is impossible to capture in normal still photographs. Literally carved directly into vibrant red, white, pink, and sandstone cliff faces, the prehistoric Jordanian city of Petra was “lost” to the Western world. The City was rediscovered by a young Swiss explorer by the name of Johan Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812.
I made the trek crossing over from the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt (where I was staying) to Eilat in Israel and then over to Petra, in Jordan. The borders are actually fairly close to each other so it didn’t take as long as it seems – maybe 3 hours. From Ammn in Jordon we took a bus ride for about two hours along nothing but sand tracks in the desert. Then the fun began; we rode on horseback until we reached the ancient red city carved in rock. We left our horses there and entered through the very narrow gorge (the Siq, shown in photo above) with a breathtaking view of the building called the “Treasury”.
It is called the “rose red city” for a good reason. Temples, tombs and other buildings are all carved out of the red sandstone cliffs. I’ve never seen anything like it before or since.
At its peak the city of Petra was home to some 20,000 Nabataeans who, in the midst of the desert, built an ingenious system of waterways to provide their city with the precious liquid.
Since the early 1800s, when it was “rediscovered,” clues to daily life in this “lost city of stone” are being unearthed and today we are beginning to see once again what Petra looked like 2,000 years ago.
Situated between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea, Petra was an important crossroads between Arabia, Egypt and Syria-Phoenicia. Petra is half-built, half-carved into the rock, and is surrounded by mountains riddled with passages and gorges. It is one of the world’s most famous archaeological sites, where ancient Eastern traditions blend with Hellenistic architecture.
I feel incredibly lucky that I had the opportunity to make this trek and witness in person the physical splendour of this ancient city.
Whenever traveling to a new place I always look for the marketsto see the variety of foodstuff they offer and what kind of handiwork they produce. As you can see from these photos there was no shortage of either in Oaxaca.
Making the Zapotec Rug is a long process.
On one trip to Arizona I came home with six Zapotec rugs not realizing that I would be in the birthplace of the Zapotec here in Oaxaca.Making black pottery at San Bartolo Coyotepec.To produce these lovely vases among various other things. You cannot carry these on board.women weaving on back strap looms
To produce these beautiful shawls and runners.The making of Alebrijes (hand made wooden figues) in Arrazola.One example of a finished Alebrije.
There’s something chic about wearing a cape. At this time of year it’s not a constant but for in between the wet and very cold weather for those “off days” you can certainly pull it off (or on).
I think it’s a must in a woman’s wardrobe.
On the Autumn/Winter 2014 catwalk scene capes were coveted in a big way – check the Burberry (think trench and blanket style), Saint Laurent (tartan button-down) and Valentino (embroidered, shin-length) shows for a heads up on how to wear yours.
Shown here are some of my favourite caped crusaders.
And as a serious style maven, it’s no surprise that Sarah Jessica Parker got her hands on one of Burberry’s much sought after monogrammed capes.
Mole, mole mole…(mole-ay) is one of my favourite Mexican dishes not only because it is rich and flavourful but because one of the ingredients is chocolate.
Chicken breast marinated with purslane, cactus and sweet potato chips with black mole. El Restaurante Catedral.
These intricate sauces, made by toasting and grinding spices, seeds, and chiles, are truly the hallmark of the Oaxaca region and in fact was invented there. The wide variety of “mole” in Oaxaca is enough to satisfy the most demanding palates. The different types you won’t find anywhere else – they include black, red, yellow, green, “coloradito,” “chichilo,” and mole with almonds.
This is chicken wrapped in rice and red mole.
If you’re craving a burrito you’ll have to go elsewhere.
Cheesecake
If you’re a cheese lover you might miss certain varieties like sharp cheddar, creamy brie or blue but they have a cheese, known as “quesillo,” which whether alone, in quesadillas, or with snacks, is a Oaxacan specialty that you should certainly try. Grasshoppers are another typical dish of Oaxaca.
Chapulines at the Benito Juárez Market – can be sweetened up with honey.
You can find them everywhere – even the top hotels and restaurants (so be aware the Spanish name is “Chapulines” otherwise you might think you’re getting some exotic sounding beef because when it’s covered in mole you can’t really tell). These delicious (so they say) fried insects are eaten in tacos, and the tradition says that whoever eats grasshoppers, will return to Oaxaca. Oh, oh…I didn’t know about this before now. Where are the little buggers when you need them? I don’t remember the last time I saw a grasshopper here in Vancouver – I think they all mistakenly moved to Mexico for the warmer weather.
After that a taste of something sweet. The “best” coconut flan with dulce de leche & soaked in mexcal. Topped with pecans. Zandunga.
Other typical dishes from Oaxaca are “Tamales” stuffed with “mole,” poblano chili strips, or beans, and wrapped in banana leaves. “Tlayudas” (tla-u-da) are another appetizer that you can find almost anywhere. I shared one in a market which was topped with delicious Mexican chorizo (a cut above – with less grease or fat), avocado, tomato, beans & cheese and it tasted great on a crunchy tostada. Other traditional dishes are the beef called “tasajo,” jerky, and “chiles rellenos” or stuffed chile.
Fantastic Chilean salmon at “El Quinque” – a great little restaurant.
In short, everything we ordered tasted superb and the care of presentation was impressive. Of course getting a tumbler of mexcal before your meal ensures everything will taste good.
A starter of gazpacho at “Les Danzantes” for the pre-fixe lunch. Excellent!
But honestly, I have nothing but rave reviews for the culinary skills of Oaxaca. Squash blossom flower sauce anyone? During ten days my friend Judy introduced me to some of the finest places to eat so if you plan to go just let me know and I’ll be happy to recommend a few places to drink spots.
chili chocolate brownie
Next week I will post an authentic red mole recipe but I’ll forewarn you that it is time consuming and maybe 1% of you will actually make it. It is however less expensive than travelling all the way to Oaxaca.
I’ve visited a variety of places from bustling and busy Tijuana to what used to be known as the sleepy fishing village of Barra de Navidad to the resort towns of Cancun & Playa del Carmen. I worked at one of the Club Meds in Mexico years ago. Never had a bad time or gotten sick.
A restaurant in al centro
Last week I returned from spending ten days in what is considered to be “the most diverse” state in all of Mexico. Ten days in vibrant Oaxaca (pronounced wah-hah-ka) is definitely not enough time, but it is just enough time to know that I want to go back. It was wonderful.
A typical stroll into town
A friend was house sitting another friends spectacular house high up on a hill with a 180 degree view and invited me to stay. At the time she told me about it I was considering going to Las Vegas to run a half marathon along the strip at night while listening to rock bands (for something different) but I made the wiser choice.
Many, many of these arches (arquitos)
Before I came to Oaxaca (a UNESCO world heritage site) I thought I knew everything a lot about Mexico. I was expecting to hear mariachis everywhere and get a plate of chips & salsa delivered to our table as soon as we sat down at any restaurant. Not so…although you can. Instead we listened to a combination of Cuban, Jazz, Salsa, Argentine Tango, Classical and a 12-piece brass orchestra visiting from Belgium which took place in the dazzling Macedonio Alcala theatre – all gratis. Every night there is something different to take in and lots of puppetry, fireworks and dancing.
Monte Albán, built by the Zapotecs, is one of the country’s most important ruins.
So much activity goes on in the town centre amidst local artisans selling their wares, craft shops and street markets. All the cuisine we had was unbelievably top-notch. I heard this to be true but had to find out for myself. The only thing I did not sample were the worms and grasshoppers that are considered delicacies there (I’ll leave that for the locals and was not so brave even to try the crunchy ones). I might need a whole bottle of Mexcal before doing so.
The inspiring rock formations of a petrified waterfall at Hierve el Aqua.
Here is what else I found besides an amazingly wide variety of food – stunning architecture, rich cultural traditions, important ruins, a great little *Spanish language school where you can sit outside in a garden setting for your lessons, a soft temperate climate (which allows you to sit outside) and Oaxaca’s specialty spirit, mezcal,
I’m not sure I can do thisMany little tasting spots (mezcalerilas)around town
which is made from dozens of types of agave (unlike tequila, which is made exclusively from blue agave). Another thing is that you don’t want to have too much of that. Don’t ask me how I know that…somebody told me. I think it can make you hallucinate.
So I don’t know everything about Mexico but I’m willing to learn. This is a place I’d like to further explore with a side trip to Huatulco. Not to mention brush up on my Español . Hasta la próxima vez!
Have you been?
Photos: d. king (double click to enlarge)
*School – Oaxaca Spanish Magic
Link to my Oaxaca board for more photos on PINTEREST (which I will keep adding to):
This is written on the wall of a shop in Oaxaca, Mexico.
Translation (more or less):
when you love what you are
there is nothing that is unconquerable or unreachable
when you really love yourself
(here is where it gets a little lost) live only in the light of your own laughter
and travel only by the way of joy and happiness
Look up.…look way up! and… “Don’t Lose the NOW“
This one is a photo taken of a famous poem written by Jorge Luis Borges that filled the whole ceiling of a quaint little wine bar/restaurant in historic Oaxaca where my friends and I listened to live Cuban music. Borges, an Argentine poet, short-story writer, essayist and translator was a key figure in Spanish language literature. His work embraces the “character of unreality in all literature.” This is a beautiful writing and will make you think about your life:
INSTANTS
If I could live again my life,
In the next – I’ll try,
– to make more mistakes,
I won’t try to be so perfect,
I’ll be more relaxed,
I’ll be more full – than I am now,
In fact, I’ll take fewer things seriously,
I’ll be less hygenic,
I’ll take more risks,
I’ll take more trips,
I’ll watch more sunsets,
I’ll climb more mountains,
I’ll swim more rivers,
I’ll go to more places – I’ve never been,
I’ll eat more ice creams and less (lime) beans,
I’ll have more real problems – and less imaginary
ones,
I was one of those people who live
prudent and prolific lives –
each minute of his life,
Of course that I had moments of joy – but,
if I could go back I’ll try to have only good moments,
If you don’t know – thats what life is made of, Don’t lose the now!
I was one of those who never goes anywhere
without a thermometer,
without a hot-water bottle,
and without an umberella and without a parachute,
If I could live again – I will travel light,
If I could live again – I’ll try to work bare feet
at the beginning of spring till
the end of autumn,
I’ll ride more carts,
I’ll watch more sunrises and play with more children,
If I have the life to live – but now I am 85,
– and I know that I am dying …
To celebrate 70 years of innovative kitchenware Bodum (the maker of the iconic French press) have re-launched some of their classic and our favourite items in fresh fun colours. Makes you think of spring/summer but that’s just fine at this time of the year.
It makes the start to my day that much merrier.
Happy Anniversary Bodum!
I had the perfect cup of moka just days ago at Café Arábigo in Oaxaca, Mexico.
Every year Sephora puts out the ultimate beauty boxed gift sets (even if the gift is meant for ourselves) so we can sample the best of the best.
The SUPERSTARS
This year I was eyeing “gimme more lip” when I realized that I already have almost half the box in my beauty cabinet at home. Which means it’s a pretty useful and gorgeous set.
For your EYES ONLY
It’s kind of like the makeup version of the Japanese boxed lunch where you want to sample a little bit of everything because you are so hungry for it all.
The Crème de la Crème SHOPHere is another very versatile shop I want to share with you.
I’m a BIG advocate of one-stop shoppingIn this place you can not
only get something great to wear or carry….but you can pick up some pretty nice herbal teas, a gift for a mom-to-be,dishes for your dog, a lavatory mist and a little something to read.
I hope you enjoy this *pheremone enhancing recipe with added Leeks and Herbs
For the past five years Wolfgang Puck, long-reigning king at the L.A. institution Spago, has been on a new path, working out with a trainer and revamping his menus to emphasize fresh produce and whole grains. “I like to buy high-quality ingredients and simply enhance them rather than alter their flavor or color,” says Puck. His new cookbook, Wolfgang Puck Makes it Healthy, offers all the details. Asparagus creates an ultra-bright soup. Cooling it in an ice bath as soon as it’s blended, keeps the hue vivid and preserves the chlorophyll so that the dish will be healthier and taste even better according to Puck.
Whenever traveling to a new place I always look for the markets to see the variety of foodstuff they offer and what kind of handiwork they produce. As you can see from these photos there was no shortage of either in Oaxaca.
Here is another very versatile shop I want to share with you.
In this place you can not
but you can pick up some pretty nice herbal teas,
a gift for a mom-to-be,
dishes for your dog,
a lavatory mist and a little something to read.
What to do with them:
Girl Who Would be KING on Life, Style and INSPIRATION. 
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